• Pabbay - 2000 ◄ . . . back


Harry Hoofter   35m   E2 5c   *
-FA Rick Campbell & Gary Latter (on-sight) 16 May 2000-
Finely situated climbing up the hanging crack in the arête above the drooping beak-like overhang at the left end. Easily up to the arête, then pull round right and up the crack to belay on the slab above (avoid rope drag). Finish more easily


Both routes lead to the terrace beneath the main cliff. It is also possible to traverse right and gain the top two pitches of U-ei.

Oi   55m   E3 5c,5b   **
-FA Rick Campbell, Gary Latter & Malcolm Davies (on-sight) 14 May 2000-
Follows a line of cracks and grooves up the left edge of the open recess. Start beneath an obvious crack at the left end of the platform. Climb the crack, stepping right to a good ledge. Continue up the crack-line, pulling out left of a steep jam-crack in a short groove higher up with difficulty to take a belay in a small recess. Move out right then up past a flake to gain the right end of the platform beneath the main wall.

E-up   50m   E2 5c,5c   *
-FA Tess Fryer & Ian Taylor (on-sight) 15 May 2000-
Start round the arête from Oi, beneath a right-facing corner on the front face.

1 20m  Climb steep corner and groove above to belay below a roof.
2 30m  Swing right round small arête and make strenuous moves through roof to a ledge. Go up flake leftwards to vertical crack and climb this easier to belay on large platform below the main crag.


The Bonxie   75m   E6 6b,6b   ***
-FA Gary Latter, Rick Campbell & Malcolm Davies (ground-up) 15 May 2000-
The long continuous crack system up the wall left of the hanging corner of a Cormorants... Sustained and very well protected. Start 8m left of that route, beneath a short vertical crack.
1 25m  Climb the crack and traverse left along rounded break to the main crack system. Make a long reach past a good undercut to a big jug, and continue up the crack, which soon forms twin deep cracks. Continue up these, and a third crack higher up, to take a hanging belay at an obvious break beneath the pegmatite band.
2 50m  Layback the central of three flared cracks above and pull out left to a jug. Move right up a short diagonal crack with difficulty to undercuts. Pull through these to gain good flakes leading up left (as for a Cormorants....) and finish up this.

Also #2 ascents of I Suppose a Cormorants out of the Question then? (E5 6a,6b,5c) *** - Gary Latter, Malcolm Davies and Rick Campbell and The Ancient Mariners E5 6a,5a *** - Neil and Pete Craig.


Fuhrer of the Sausage People   60m   E3 5c,5c   *
-FA Ian Taylor & Tess Fryer 14 May 2000-
Start as for Spring Squill.
1 30m  Go steeply up and left to easier ground, then follow flakes leftwards to beneath small overlaps. Pull through these and continue up and left to hanging belay left of the massive downward pointing flake of Endolphin Rush Alternative Finish.
2 30m  Go back right and climb the awkward crack right of the flake to gain a circular depression. Pull through the overhang and finish as for Spring Squill.


Birthday Balloons   30m   HVS 4c   *
-FA Paddy Gibson & Lisa Wright 13 May 2000-
Left of The Complete Works is a severely undercut grey wall, with a bottomless corner capped by a large roof left again. Ascend The Complete Works for 5m until an obvious sloping foothold on the left arête can be reached. Traverse left round the arête and climb diagonally up and left across the grey wall into the corner. Climb this, going left past the roof.


Don’t Fool Yourself Girl   25m   E4 6b   *
-FA Rick Campbell & Gary Latter 13 May 2000-
The shorter rightmost crack, climbed with difficult moves near its top to a good ledge. Break left through the roof and finish more easily up the headwall.