• Coigach - 2000 ◄ . . . back



Great Black Back Direct   20m   E3 5c   *
-FA Gary Latter & Louise Gordon Canning 31 August 2000-
The arête climbed direct without escaping into the corner on the left. Very eliminate. Place protection in the initial break by bridging up the boulder, then ascend the initial arête and follow it, finishing out right over the bulge on good holds.


Spaced Out Rockers on the Road to Oblivion   65m   E4 5c, 5c    ****
-FA Kevin Murphy & Doug Hawthorn (in 4 pitches) 1985-; -FA as described Gary Latter & Dave Hollinger 22 August 2000-
A stunning right to left diagonal line across the big undercut wall, giving the longest and best route on the peninsula. Start at a big roofed recess just left of the right edge of the wall, gained from the west face by soloing leftwards round ledges.
1 20m  Traverse horizontally left until below the left end of a ledge system. Make hard moves up to gain the ledge, and belay at the right end.
2 45m  Go to the left end of the ledge and up to a prominent handrail, and follow this until possible to gain a higher handrail, which cuts through an obvious niche to finish in the corner. Nut belay at top of the corner, or 15m further back. A 'Yosemite big wall' rack of cams from 1-4, (mainly #1.5 -#3”) will be found more than useful.

The following routes are tidal, accessible from mid-tide onwards.

Headlong   35m   E4 5c   ***
-FA Gary Latter & Dave Hollinger (on-sight) 21 August 2000-
Excellent sustained climbing heading for the prominent hanging groove high up in the centre of the cliff. Start 10m right of the blunt slabby arête beneath the right end of the big roof. Climb straight up to a left-slanting crack and follow this left to small ledge beneath a flake. Follow this, then slightly right up the shallow ramp to an apparent impasse. Climb steeply straight up the wall on hidden holds, then traverse left along the excellent break of Spaced Out Rockers to a good rest in the base of the final groove. Climb this more easily to finish. Stake belay immediately above.

Culach   30m   E4 6a   ***
-FA Gary Latter 1 September 2000-
Spectacular climbing up the hanging flake system in the centre of the cliff. Start immediately beneath the flake system. Climb steadily up to protection in the first break at 5m, then up and follow the groove/flakes, climbing on good holds steeply up the edge to a good rest beneath the break of Spaced Out Rockers …
Make bold moves straight up to good ledges (birdy) and continue to large ledge near top. Climbs straight up, with a long reach to the final break. Finish slightly left, past a good undercut flake.


Monster Trundle   15m   HVS 5a
-FA Gary Latter & Louise Gordon Canning (on-sight) 1 September 2000-
The leftmost of the two left-slanting faults on the west facing wall (just right of Waigwa). The rock is not quite as good as the neighbouring routes.


Graculus   25m   E2 5c   *
-FA Dave Hollinger & Gary Latter (on-sight) 21 August 2000-
A fine right-trending line up the obvious ramp on the right side of the wall. Climb direct to near the left side of the ramp, and follow this, stepping up right past a good undercut flange. Finish more easily above.

Dave Hollinger on FFA
Spaced Out Rockers
on the Road to Oblivion

E4 5c, Reiff