| • Central Highlands - 2000 | ◄ . . . back |
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CREAG DHUBH LITTLE ROCK Which Orifice? 15m E4 6b * -FA Gary Latter & Dave Hollinger 1 August 2000- Another good sustained workout, though close to Heather Wall in the central section. Start 2m right of Heather Wall, beneath a couple of prominent quartz slots. Climb past these and place a small cam in the short vertical slot above. Make hard moves to gain a large incut plaque directly above, then climb straight up until a step right at a good thin horizontal break leads to some sloping holds to finish past a cracked block. SPRAWL WALL The Meejies 14m E5 6a ** -FA Gary Latter & Lawrence Hughes 10 August 2000- A direct line up the centre of the wall, just right of Yes! Yes! Climb easily up the crack into the niche, then up to the obvious handrail. Gain a standing position on this, then continue with good protection to finish on good holds. Finish up any of the routes above. CONAGLEANN Frog’s Rib 25m E1 5b * -FA Gary Latter (on-sight) 2 August 2000- The blunt rib up the centre of the front face. Start beneath a short steep crack 3m left of Toad’s Arête. Climb the flake crack and trend slightly left and follow the rib steeply to gain a good right-slanting flake crack which leads to a belay in a small recess on the arête. Either traverse right to the in situ nut at the top of The Falcon, or finish up the upper (lichenous) slab of Toad’s Arête. The Falcon 25m E2 5b * -FA Gary Latter & Sean Roberts (on-sight) 2 August 2000- The impressive right-facing flake up the centre of the orange scooped wall at the right side of the crag. On the first ascent the prominent upper section of the flake was gained via the wall on the right (loose rock near the base of the flake). This was removed on abseil, and a direct ascent would be more logical. Gain a ledge on the right wall of the flake and go up until an obvious traverse line leading left into the top of the flake. Traverse left using a good spike to a small ledge, and continue leftwards to a cleaned ledge. Climb straight up on good flakes, then more easily up the edge of the slab. Trend right on ledges to an in situ nut and krab in a large flake. Abseil off. | 
 The Meejies E5 6a, Sprawl Wall Creag Dhubh |